El Portal, CA: Yosemite’s Western Gateway

A highway-adjacent hamlet just west of Yosemite National Park’s famed Arch Rock entrance, El Portal offers much more than meets the eye. El Portal’s scenic three-mile drive to the Arch Rock Entrance follows All-Season Highway 140 as it winds up the Wild & Scenic Merced River Canyon. From Arch Rock – the closest Park entrance to Yosemite Valley – it’s only seven miles to the Valley’s first legendary attraction, Bridalveil Fall, with many more ahead.

In addition to offering the closest gateway lodging to Yosemite Valley, El Portal has historic sites and displays, a range of restaurants, and convenient outlets for gas, gifts, and provisions.  In other words, the perfect place to make your Yosemite base camp.

Overnight Options in El Portal

El Portal offers an outsized range of overnight options, from camping and glamping to vacation cabins, inns, and full-service hotels. In addition, staying in this Yosemite gateway town opens up a world of travel bona fides, starting with lower hotel rates and more overall availability than properties inside the Park. 

Please note: during certain times of year, a vehicle reservation is required to enter Yosemite if staying in El Portal (or anywhere outside of the Park).

Yosemite View Lodge

Tucked into a rugged canyon, El Portal’s Yosemite View Lodge delivers a one-of-a-kind resort experience along the Wild & Scenic Merced River. Every room offers a kitchenette, river-view deck, fireplace, and just outside, the background “water music” of an ever-flowing river.  

The water theme continues with seven hot tubs and four swimming pools for on-site splasharounds.  Guest can gather ‘round roaring fire pits for happy hour and fireside s’mores. There’s a multi-level outdoor play structure for the kiddos and a well-equipped fitness center (if that Yosemite hike didn’t meet your step count).  Yosemite View Lodge’s expansive game room has entertaining options like cornhole, ping pong, air hockey, and classic arcade games. 

Yosemite View Lodge offers magical outdoor venues for family celebrations and reunions, including the El Capitan Retreat.  When these spaces are unreserved, they are open for all guests to enjoy.  Last and not least: the Yosemite View Lodge is the closest hotel to the Arch Rock Entrance, only a few miles away.  Tesla charging stations and a YARTS bus stop on the property offer additional green transportation options.

Yosemite View Lodge’s restaurants are top-shelf. The River Restaurant & Lounge is open for breakfast and dinner.  The dinner menu flows through starters and salads with classic entrée categories including pasta, chicken, seafood, steaks and ribs. Also at Yosemite View Lodge is Parkside Pizza, purveyor of best-crust-in-show pizzas served in a chill, casual setting perfect for dining in or take-out.

Yosemite Cedar Lodge

Nestled along a forested stretch of the Merced River, Cedar Lodge offers spacious rooms and suites with fireplaces, deluxe amenities like multiple pools and hot tubs, cozy fire pits, and a private beach, all just eight miles (or about 15 minutes by car) from the Arch Rock Entrance.  There’s also a YARTS stop right in front for the Yosemite Valley-bound bus.  

Many of Cedar Lodge’s rooms and suites include spa tubs, kitchenettes, espresso makers, and private decks perfect for wine and cheese with a view.  And, just like sister property Yosemite View Resort, Yosemite Cedar Lodge has an array of indoor and outdoor event venues for special occasions (and, when not reserved, available to all guests) including the River Park, Half Dome Hall, and Chandelier Grove.

Restaurants at Yosemite Cedar Lodge are perfect for a pre-Park breakfast or post-trail dinner:  the Cedar Lodge Restaurant and the Canyon Bar & Grill. Both are family-friendly with burgers, salads and more.

Indian Flat RV Campground

El Portal’s Indian Flat RV Campground is the closest campsite to Yosemite’s Arch Rock Entrance, about eight miles or 15 minutes via Highway 140.  Offering a Swiss Army Knife-range of overnight options, Indian Flat has 25 RV sites with water, electric, and some sewer hookups, plus 25 tent sites for traditional camping.

If roughing-it lite is more your speed, Indian Flat delivers with cabin rentals featuring beds, kitchenettes, private bathrooms, ceiling fans, and cable TV. Jupe Tents are Indian Flat’s latest feature, a glamping tent option with soaring ceilings, picture windows, queen beds, A/C, electricity and dimmer-switch LED lighting. Located next to Yosemite Cedar Lodge, Indian Flat guests can take the short walk over to take advantage of Cedar Lodge’s amenities and dining venues, too. Comfort and luxury under one tent – Jupe for joy!

Blue Butterfly Inn

El Portal’s Blue Butterfly Inn offers the exclusive opportunity to Bed & Breakfast on the Merced River, just a few miles from Yosemite’s Arch Rock Entrance and a dozen miles to Yosemite Valley.  The Inn’s large decks overlook the edge of the Merced’s tumbling path, with trout flashing in the crystal-clear pools below. Rooms are classically decorated in the Arts and Crafts style and thoughtfully furnished with antiques. Each room comes with a private bathroom and free WiFi.  For extra convenience, there is a YARTS bus stop located across from the Inn for easy access to Yosemite.

Moonstone Retreat

Sounding like something from a Fleetwood Mac album, Moonstone Retreat is actually one of El Portal’s most inviting vacation cabin rentals. This nurturing, 4-bedroom, 3-bath retreat is just over nine miles from Yosemite and provides creature comforts worthy of its prized location.  River and mountain views from nearly every room, en suite marble bathrooms and king beds in the upstairs trio, and a bonus bohemian bedroom downstairs. 

Wolf oven, Sub Zero refrigerator, Bosch dishwasher – kitchen appliances are equally elevated. A property-wide mesh WiFi network keeps everyone connected.  And in addition to the expansive indoor kitchen, an outdoor kitchen with pizza oven and grill for outdoor entertaining.  Did we mention the Yoga Studio? You get the vibe of this vacation rental palace.

Yosemite’s River House

Another inviting El Portal vacation rental entry is Yosemite’s River House, a three-bedroom, two-bath property located on Incline Road, running parallel to the Merced River with beautiful river views from its expansive deck. Newly remodeled with a fully-equipped kitchen, two gas fireplaces, manicured gardens, and the only private swimming pool in El Portal, Yosemite’s River House offers an updated, resort-level vacation cabin experience.  

Riverside Attractions

Highway 140 is designated as a Scenic Highway by the state of California, a well-deserved accolade.  Be prepared for oohs and aaahs as you wind along the Merced River Canyon from the west.  This wild river runs westward from Yosemite Valley waterfalls, and there’s a vista around nearly every turn.  At numerous points along the river, discover picnic and day-use areas perfect for a pre- or post-El Portal picnic.  Prime pull-overs include Redbud and McClendon Beach. 

The paw-some Merced River Trail in Briceburg is dog-friendly if your co-pilot needs to stretch their legs.  The mood of the Merced is seasonal, from spring’s snowmelt-fed fury to late summer and fall, when the flow is more “lazy river.” Any time of year, it’s riparian rapture.

An historic attraction west of El Portal is Savage’s Trading Post, a California Historic Landmark.   The marker tells the tale of James Savage, a local character with an uncanny knack for being present at pivotal moments in California’s formative history. The current building is a reconstruction, and located next to the Yosemite Red Bud Lodge.

From here, and especially If you’re visiting in spring, this is an ideal time to put on your hiking shoes and stretch your legs along the Hite Cove Trail. Located next to the Red Bud Lodge, the trailhead leads to the South Fork of the Merced River.  The first mile of the trail is a symphony of California poppies, blue lupine, and red Indian paintbrush, crescendoing late March through mid-May.  It’s a seven-mile out-and-back hike in total, but the flower power happens early and often if you’re just looking for a short pre-Yosemite hike to stretch your legs.

This section of the Merced River is whitewater rafting central, with local outfitters Zephyr Whitewater Expeditions and OARS River Rafting delivering thrilling half or full-day excursions along the Merced River just downstream from El Portal.

History on Display in El Portal

As El Portal is literally “the portal” to Yosemite, the town served as the last stop for the Yosemite Valley Railroad (YVRR) until 1945.  From El Portal, Yosemite’s intrepid early tourists would then board another form of transportation to continue the last few miles into the Park.  

Just a few yards west of the El Portal Market and gas station, El Portal Road leads to a number of well-preserved YVRR artifacts.  Interpretive signs tell the story of how historic structures at El Portal were moved here from Bagby in 1966, just before the town was flooded with the expansion of Lake McClure behind the New Exchequer Dam. The twin water towers and station house from Bagby were saved; today, the station house serves as local headquarters for the Yosemite Conservancy.  

The person-powered turntable is a detailed reconstruction of the original on the same foundation as when the line began service in 1907. The railroad’s turntable served the important function of reversing the main engine and car for the return trip down the Merced River Canyon. The reconstructed turntable is fully functional, and a few people can team up to move it by hand.  The turntable, Engine #6, and an original caboose were brought back to life by the Yosemite Conservancy using original engineering drawings and historic photographs.

Stock Up: El Portal Essentials

Before entering Yosemite, a smart stop is the El Portal Market & Gas to fill up the tank for the national park adventures that lie ahead.  The well-stocked market is a great place to grab sandwiches, snacks, sunscreen, and drinks to go.  It’s also where to make that first Yosemite waterfall sighting: from the parking lot, seasonal Chinquapin Falls is in view as it cascades from the granite cliffs just across the Merced River. 

Finding that perfect souvenir in El Portal is easy as well.  Both the Yosemite View Lodge and Cedar Lodge offer excellent gift and convenience stores with official Yosemite-branded apparel, outdoor and recreational gear, sundries, and more.

The Long and Winding Road

El Portal is more than a map point along the road to Yosemite.  It’s a star in its own right, a perfect basecamp from which to explore Yosemite Mariposa County’s galaxy of attractions.  It’s lower-elevation location along All-Season Highway 140 offers year-round access to the Park. For many visitors on their way to Yosemite Valley, it’s hidden in plain sight.  We recommend slowing down and taking a closer look!